Fungus On Floor Joists

By: Handy Andy

Recently we were asked to take a look at a crawl space that smelled a little musty.  During our review of the crawl space we determined a few problems:

1. Some of the joist batt insulation had fallen down
2. Some of the joist batt insulation was installed backwards
3. A few pieces of the rim insulation had fallen out
4. The min. of 6-mil (or higher) polyethylene sheathing to cover the ground was missing
5. Fungus was growing on the floor joists

Here are some steps to take to rectify the problem:

 

Step 1

It is important that the fungus/mold gets treated.  Most folks think that straight Clorox is the solution.  This is indeed not the case since it may actually harm the wood fibers.  A 5:1 water to bleach mixture would be suggested to kill what mold that is there. Exterminators recommend coating the wood with a solution of Boric Acid (BORON) and water. It will kill the fungus and keep it from coming back (and in addition any other wood boring insects that ever try to eat the wood). Boron dehydrates the fungus and mold but it will also kill carpenter ant, termites, boring bees, powder post beetles who try to eat the wood. If you can find Boric Acid, you can also use a product called Roach Away ( approx. 95% Boric Acid) which is an insecticide that can be found in many local stores and mix it with hot water.  Apply the solution with a pump sprayer to the affected areas.
 

Step 2

Install the batt insulation.  Insulation with a vapor retarder should be used. Pay attention so that the vapor retarder faces up towards the heated area of the home. The insulation should be installed tight up against the subfloor. The insulation should stay temporarily in place. Once the insulation is in place, hold it in position with insulation support wires. Make sure the ends of the batts fit snug up against the band joists.

 

Step 3

Infill the missing rim insulation where need.  You can use the same vapor retardant faced insulation as in Step 2.

 

Step 4

Cover the ground with black min. 6-mil polyethylene sheeting,overlapping joints by 12" or more. Then use duct tape to join the overlaps and or use rocks to hold the material in place. This will prevent ground moisture from entering the space, rising to the flooring above and causing fungus, mold or wood rot. The polyethylene sheet makes a great moisture barrier.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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September 2013
 

10 Home Improvements You Need to Consider Before Selling

By: Handy Andy

Although the market is slowly changing, for the time being, most real estate markets are still considered a "Buyers Market". Since the buyers are still in the drivers seat and you are trying to sell your, you have be as competitive as possible on all fronts and that includes having your house to par.
Not only does your house have to be pricing right, but you have to making your property as desirable as possible. You can be proactive and make certain improvements that will make your property more desirable.

Here are 10 improvements that you may want to ponder about:

1. Paint the interior (incl. repair drywall blemishes) and exterior (incl. repair/replace rotten wood).
2. Seal any cracks both inside or outside the home.
3. Keep the lawn mowed and the shrubbery trimmed and shaped and remove leafs from the gutters.
4. Remove any clutter.
5. Clean out your garage and stack stuff neatly.
6. Replace malfunctioning and worn door knobs, locks and door stops.
7. Replace the carpeting.
8. Replace broken tiles on floors and bathroom.
9. Fix any plumbing issues.
10. Tend to any system noises or other flaws.

It’s still a tough market to sell a home.  Take a look at your home with a critical eye and get ready to fix or replace anything in it that doesn’t look right. Sometimes it is helpful to have a someone who is not familiar with your house to give you a second opinion. Ask a friend or a family member who doesn't life with you to give you a second opinion.

Sometimes it is also recommendable to jump a head of the curb and ask an independent home inspector to give you a home assessment report before you put the house on the market.  They have a very keen eye and are trained to address items that typically turn up on a buyers inspection report. The less you have on the list, the better the buyer well feel about making an investment in your home.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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Vinyl Siding 101

By: Handy Andy

Over the years, many builders, by demand of homeowners, have choose vinyl siding, because it is perceived to be almost maintenance-free. Put it up, clean it occasionally and forget about it. If the siding fades or breaks, it can be relatively easy to be replaced.

Another nice thing about today's vinyl siding is that it is know to last relatively long.  Vinyl siding will last depending on the grade of the siding, how heavy the vinyl is and the harshness of environmental conditions. Vinyl siding  comes typically with a 10-year up to 50-year warranty.

It comes in many styles. It expands and contracts with temperature variations more than other siding materials and this can cause puffing or separation at seams if the installation did not properly allow for such fluctuations.

Vinyl siding is one of the more popular choices buy homeowners and builders a like for homes today. As a testament to its popularity, as many as 30 percent of homes are now covered in some type of vinyl siding.
Vinyl siding is available in more profiles than any other cladding on the market. Using the latest technology, Vinyl siding manufacturers are using the latest technology to recreate fine wood exteriors of the past that work beautifully with many of today and tomorrows architectural styles, from historic to contemporary. A couple are listed below:

1. Dutch Lap             3. Clapboard                     6. Beated              9. Scallops
2. Single Lap             4. Board & Batten            7. Shakes
2. Cabinet Board       5. Vertical                         8. Shingles

Vinyl siding comes in a wide range of product quality, thickness and lasting durability. Thickness can vary from .035" in cheaper grade siding products up to .052" in the highest grade products which vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Today, the thinnest vinyl siding commonly used is .040", and is known as "builder's grade".


Siding profiles are relatively easily distinguishable from each other. Below are some of the more common profile sizes:


1. Clapboard Siding - Triple = 3",  Double = 4", 4-1/2", 5", and Single = 6", 7"
2. Dutchlap Siding - Triple = 3" and Double = 4", 4-1/2", 5"
3. Beated Siding - Single 6", 7"

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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March 2013

Cleaning & Protecting Your Travertine Tile

By: Handy Andy

Travertine in the residential construction is a natural stones that is used commonly for paving patios and garden paths. Depending on your region, sometimes the stone is also called travertine marble or travertine limestone.  Travertine is classified properly in the geotechnical realm as a limestone product. The stone is characterized by uneven holes and cribs in its surface. Although these ribs occur naturally, they suggest signs of considerable natural wear and tear over time. Some tile layers use a grout to fill the holes, whereas others leave them open go give it the natural look. Travertine can be purchased with the holes and ribs filled or unfilled.  One can also purchase the tile polished to a smooth and shiny finish.

Travertine is most commonly used as flooring.  One has to be mindful of this stone since it is relative soft in nature and with the combination with its holes and ribs, it make travertine flooring difficult to finish and maintain.

Travertine tile cleaning is the same as cleaning any natural stone.  As with all natural stones it is always recommend too use a neutral cleaner. The absolute most important thing to remember when cleaning travertine tile is not to use strong chemicals or your typical house hold cleaners. Not even a mixture of vinegar or bleach with water is recommended with this stone.  Vinegar is acidic while bleach is alkaline based.  Acidic and even alkaline chemicals will etch the travertine. You do not want to clean travertine with either one of these cleaners. When cleaning your travertine floors, mop the travertine tiles with your neutral cleaning solution.  If you don't have a neutral cleaner, use warm water to clean you travertine surface.  

We recommend you dust mop the floor using a non-treated dust mop or vacuum with a glider (with no plastic beater bar) on it. Then mop the travertine floor with the neutral cleaner.  After mopping, use a dry cotton or microfiber cloth to dry the surface of the travertine.  The last step will not only pick up the excess water but also any dirt particles still left in the water.

 

Travertine will etch easily since it is a soft stone. Sealing travertine has nothing to do with and won't prevent etching. Sealing travertine and the grout yearly is to guard against staining. Travertine can stain when honed or tumbled.  Polished travertine is nearly stain-proof and usually doesn't need sealing.

If your polished travertine floor tile is looking a little dull, it probably needs more than a cleaning. It may need to be re-surfaced, or honed and polished.

The Big Do Not’s…

DON'T use vinegar or others acid cleaners on stone floors

DON'T use cleaners like bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners as many are known to contain acid.

DON'T use abrasive cleaners like soft scrub or Ajax

DON’T let acidic spills remain on the travertine. Remember, travertine is a porous stone, and any spills left standing for some time will dull the finish and may stain the surface.  

Here are some tips…

Seal your travertine tile annually. This will help preserve the travertine and help protect it from dust and stains.

Wipe spills immediately. Particularly, if the spill is acidic in nature like wine, juice, or coffee.

Use a neutral cleaner or stone soap to clean your travertine tile.

Use coasters under glasses and bottles

Put down an entry mat in entryways to protect your travertine tile floor from scratches that could potentially be caused by dirt coming from your shoes. Hall runners and rugs also give additional protection.

Dust mop your travertine tile floor regularly to keep it free from dust and debris that may scratch its surface.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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January  2013

Home Repairs Everyone Should Do!

By: Handy Andy

Every year we encounter the same standard home repair and maintenance items that so many homeowners ignore.  Many home owners ignore the obvious deferred maintenance items that can save them money and improve the appearance.  Here are 10 repair and maintenance items that every home owner should pay attention too:

 

1. Light Bulb - Change your old indoor light bulbs to the newer compact fluorescent lamp.  A 13W lamp has a 10,000 hour life and replaces a 60W lamp.  In 2013 the olds 75W lamps will be taken off the market.  In 2014, we can expect the old 60W lamps to be taken off the market too.

 

2. Furnace Filter - Changing your filters every 30-90 days, can increase the life of your appliances and keeps your air clean. Depending on your system(s), you may not only have air filters in the common return air in the walls or ceiling but you may also have a filter in your furnace in your attic or crawl space.

 

3. Running Toilet - You may hear dripping or running water in your toilet bowl.  This commonly means that the flapper may need cleaning or replacement.  It may also mean that the floater arm may need adjusting. 

 

4. Leaking Faucet - Dripping faucets can run up your water bill.  Over time some of the internal parts of the faucet can corrode.  Most home improvement stores sell faucet repair kids.

 

5. Shower Head - Over time shower heads clog with mineral deposit and sediment over time. Older models are not very energy efficient while newer models have low flow designs that can save you money without sacrificing the spray strength.

 

6. Weather Striping - Doors open and close. They are under constant stress of warm and cold weather, rain, snow, ice, etc.  The weather striping wears out and goes flat.  It's recommended to change these out every 3 to 5 years.

 

7. Shower Caulk/Grout - It's important to remove worn and mildewed caulk and grout.  By removing the damaged or moldy caulk to can prevent potential deep water damage that can get in through the failing caulk or grout.

 

8. Ceramic Tile - Floor tile can break. Cracks in the tile, can allow water to enter and cause damage to the subfloor. Damaged tile is relatively easy to replace.

 

9. Dryer Vent - Clogged dryer vents can cause your dryer from not running efficiently.  The clogged vent line, if not cleaned regular can be a potential fire hazard. 

 

10. Drywall -  Fix small holes and dents and reattach loose drywall tape.

 

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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January  2013

How to protect your exterior door from dog scratches

By: Handy Andy

We are so happy to have our little pup - Bailey and Tucker. They love to go outside and play in the backyard.  They also like to make it known when they want to come back in. Bailey and Tucker scratch on our patio door and frame until we let them in. It's their means of communicating with us that it is time to let them in.

We hadn't found a good solution to this problem until this weekend. We fixed all the scratches, primed and painted the door and frame.  It looks like new. We then cut three pieces of Plexiglas to the size of the door jamb and kick and mounted them to about 18-inches above the threshold. We made the Plexiglas just wide enough so that it would lap the weatherstripping so they would not scratch it. Since the Plexiglas is clear, it appears to be an integral part of the door and frame. The dogs can scratch now without damaging the wood or the weatherstripping. If they get a little mud on the Plexiglas, no big deal, we just wipe it off.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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November 2012

Foundation Vent Open or Closed?

By: Handy Andy

There is a lot of confusion surrounding this matter and by following the wrong advice you can make problems worse.

Let's clarify something right from the beginning...  controlling moisture in the crawl space, optimzing foundation vents are proven not to work as you may have hoped for. Vents not only fail to control moisture, they actually contribute to aggravate the problem.

City-Data.com asked it's Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill, NC residence in 2009 what they do with their vents during the winter months.  The result was quite interesting - 60% said they closed the vents while 40% indicated they open the vents.

Greenville Utilities , in Greenville, NC, recommends to follow the North Carolina Uniform Residential Building Code on the number and placement of crawlspace foundation vents. The utility company recommends placing a polyethelene ground cover in the crawl space, which allows for the net free ventilation area to be reduced by 50%.

In past years, the home building industry pretty much always recommended to close the foundation vents in the winter to reduce the exposure of pipes freezing and to avoid cold air in the crawl spaces. During the Spring through the Fall months, the industry alway suggested to leave the vents open .

After much research the utility companies suggests that a change in this procedure is needed for most homes. It has shown that too much ventilation occurs during our hot and humid summers.During the hot and humid weather the warm, moist air migrates into the crawl spaces and through the vents and condenses on the metal ductwork, duct insulation, floor joists, floor insulation and curtain walls. This moisture can rust and damage ductwork and contribute to mold and mildew. The moisture also negatively effects the insulation of the duct and floor and can contribute to potential wood rot.

The final verdict may read like this... Let the crawlpsace dry with natural air movement in the Spring and Fall and leave the vents closed during the hot, humid Summers and throughout the Winters to prevent the moisture problems mentioned above.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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November  2012

Gutter Guard or Not!

By Handy Andy

Only a few weeks ago I talked with my buddy Donny about cleaning his gutters.  He told me that he was really contemplating of having a gutter guards system installed on his house. Now be mindful, Donny has some large evergreen and deciduous trees all around his house that drop needles and leaves onto his house.  Not a very pretty sight and I am sure this is very frustrating to him.  Donny also admitted he wasn't quite the buck he used to be on climbing the ladder. 

When I told Donny he could count on someone quoting him $20 -45 per linear foot for installed gutter guards, he almost fell out of his chair. Let's be realistic, don't you think the companies that sell these gutter guards play upon the frustration the homeowner experiences when faced with cleaning the gutters a couple times a year.  It all sounds so good and wonderful... a system that won't clog and no more cleaning. Really?

Tim Carter with Ask The Builder notes that he tested different systems for years at his own home and they all fail in one way or the other. Tim said that all gutter guards do stop large leaves from entering gutters, but they all allow small organic debris to enter the gutter system or this debris clogs the gutter guards causing water to cascade off the roof. Just as I told Donny, Tim confirmed that if this organic debris that does enter the gutter is not cleaned out on a regular basis, you end up with a layer of goo and muck in your gutters. Eventually even the layers of goo and muck need to be removed.

Tim also advises that if you must install gutter guards, then you should make sure you buy ones that allow you to easily see through them to the bottom of the entire gutter. Avoid gutter guards that have solid tops and small slits near the front edge. Look for gutter guards that have a larger mesh-type open structure that resembles a fishnet or even a chainlink fence. These systems allow you to aim a garden hose nozzle through the guard so that water can easily flush away the organic goo that will collect in the gutter.
 
It is imperative that you sit down and do some calculations before you decide to sign a contract for gutter guards. I told Donny, let's assume he paid someone $3,000 to install gutter guards.  In the past, Donny paid someone $85 to clean his gutters. Let's assume, Donny had his gutters cleaned 3 times a year. The initial gutter guard investment would be equivalent to 12 years of gutter cleaning. There is also the factor to consider that you will have to clean gutters with the gutter guards every few years.  During this process you will have the gutter guard company come back out to remove the guards.  I am sure they will not remove and reinstall them for free.  The other aspect you need to look at... how long are you really planning to stay in the house before you up-or-down grade.

Ask The Builder suggested to be aware of salesmen who tell you all of the organic debris is washed away by rain or blown away by the wind. It is not true. At the last local home show I test what Tim suggested. I went to the small gutter guard setup with water cascading down a little roof, across the guard and into a gutter. I tore off a small piece of paper and drop it onto the running water. As Tim guarantee, the paper was carried into the gutter. 

 

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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October 2012

My Window Glass is Foggy or Cloudy... what do I do?

Can You Fix My Cloudy or Foggy Window Panes?
 
By: Handy Andy

We receive many calls during the year from our valued customers asking to clean their foggy or cloudy windows.

 

One Saturday morning you noticed your double pane window in the den has a light cloud or is a little foggy.  You got your Windex out and started wiping the inside and then the outside of the window pane. It's not long thereafter you find out the cloudiness is still there. You may decide to try a different window cleaner like vinegar and water. The result is the same.

 

The other story we hear a lot is that you are starting to wonder since last night the cloudiness on the window was not there.  Where did it come form. The next day it is gone and then it comes back later in the day. Over time the cloudiness becomes larger and thicker.  You hardly can see through the fogginess of the window.

 

The cloudiness you are experiencing is between the two panes of glass. As the seals fail, the system will allow moist air between the glass panes, where it then condenses.

Insulating glass seals have to withstand rain, cold, wind, heat, and even impact. Manufacturer's testing prevailed that the failure rate of these types of windows is only 1 to 3 percent.  With that said, there is a good chance at least one glass pane in your house will be part of the 1 to 3 percent failure rate.

 

When windows fog and fail, the only viable option is replacement. It's extremely difficult to separate the old panes (in most cases people will break the glass during the attempt), clean them up and reseal them again: The glass becomes etched from minerals in the moist air, the old seals are difficult to remove in order to get a tight new seal and a repair is just not cost effective.  

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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October 2012

Cleaning Vinyl Siding

By: Handy Andy

Over the years vinyl siding has become a referred building product for many of the builders.  It is relatively low in initial cost and it is relatively maintenance friendly.  Vinyl siding resists most common household stains, but it will become dirty like any product exposed to atmospheric conditions.

In areas not exposed to direct sun and rain, periodic washing with a soft bristle brush and clean water from a garden hose may be necessary to remove surface dirt. Chalk may also accumulate on the surface. This is a normal condition for pigmented materials exposed to the elements. For best appearance, clean vinyl siding at least once a year.

To remove soil, grime and chalk from your siding, use a garden hose, a soft bristle brush and a bucket of soapy water. There are other over the counter cleaners available.  For best results, start at the bottom of the house and work up and rinse the cleaning solution completely before it dries. If your house has brick facing, cover the brick so that it is not affected by the runoff. Thoroughly rinse the siding with clean water from a garden hose.

Manufacturers recommend avoiding prolonged or high pressure rinsing. Keep cleaning solution off surrounding fixtures and surfaces not scheduled for washing.  This doesn’t mean you cannot use power washers. Before using a pressure washer you should read the washer instructions carefully. Cleaning vinyl siding is not a science but requires but it requires you power washer straight at eye level so that you keep the water on top of the siding where it can clean most effectively. Do not aim the power washer upward as water may be driven behind the siding.

You should follow the siding manufacturer’s recommendations.  Many of the manufacturers don't want you to pressure washers on their products.  Others allow them, but have limitations on the amount of pressure and the cleaners that can be used.  Most will caution against the use of pressure washers.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

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October 2012

 

Dishwasher Cleaning - Tang Has The Power

Is the inside of your dishwasher looking a little dingy and yellow?  Does it have funny odor? It is likely caused by the hard water mineral deposits. This is very common in homes or communities that are on well systems.

It's alright! Don't think it’s the end of the world. The other good news you probably won't have to invest in a new dishwasher? There is a product out there that many of us had in our house probably before. This product has vitamin C that will break down hard water stains and return your dishwasher to it sparkling bright condition that you so vaguely remember. It is available at your local grocery store. The magic product is...believe it or not... TANG breakfast drink.

•Empty your dishwasher of dishes and other items.

•Toss 1 cup TANG into the dishwasher.

•Run the dishwasher on a regular hot-water cycle.

•There's no need to rinse the dishwasher before running your next load of dishes.

Using the TANG trick at least once a month will keep your dishwasher looking and smelling clean and bright.

There are other useful ideas of TANG around the house that will keep your entire house keep smelling clean. 

 

 

 

Kool-Aid Stain Removal Technique for Carpets

Kool-Aid is known for that smiling face on the large pitcher. Unfortunately, smiles diminish after the discovery of dried-in Kool-Aid stains on your nice carpet.

As some of you may have already experienced, the accidentally spilling red Kool-Aid onto the carpet creates a huge red mess. You cannot miss the extremely visible red stain, due to the red coloring in Kool-Aid. Fortunately, red Kool-Aid stains can be removed from carpets with some relatively simple cleaning products. Believe it or not, both the new and old Kool-Aid stains can be removed from carpets.

Old Kool-Aid stains are among the most difficult to remove from carpets because they contain food dyes. Food dyes dye the fibers of the carpet and the longer they remain in the carpet, the more permanent they become. You may need to try more than one method to remove the stain. Start with the simplest option and proceed until the stain is gone.

Here is what you need to do:

·     Pour 1 tsp. liquid hand dishwashing detergent and 1 tbsp. ammonia into a bowl. Add 2 cups of warm water to the bowl to form a soapy solution.

·     Dampen a white cotton cloth in the soapy solution. Blot the stain with the damp cloth until the Kool-Aid is absorbed.

·     Continue blotting the stain with the soapy solution. If the stain is a little more stubborn, pour 3 tsp. liquid hand dishwashing detergent, 1 tbsp. white vinegar and 2 cups warm water into a bowl.

·     Dampen a white cotton cloth in the solution, and then blot the stain with the cloth until the stain is removed. If the stain still won't come out, dampen a sponge with rubbing alcohol.

·     Scrub the stain with the sponge until the red stain is completely gone. Dampen another white cotton cloth with cold water, and blot the carpet with the cloth to rinse out the rubbing alcohol. Dry the carpet with a towel.

Another avenue to pursue is the Borax Method:

·     Spray the stain with cold water. Sprinkle borax over the surface of the stain.

·     Cover the area with a damp white cloth and press down firmly to push the borax into the carpet.

·     Lift the white cloth and spray the area with more water.

·     Lay a clean cloth over the stain and press down again. Continue this process until the stain is gone.

·     Scrape off the borax solution and rinse the carpet with water.

·     Place a clean, dry cloth on the area and lay a brick over it for several hours.

·     Vacuum the area to remove any remaining borax.

The Heat Method is one that has shown to work well too:

·     Lay a wet white cloth on the stain.

·     Set a warm (not hot) iron over the stain and wait 15 minutes. Do not rub the spot with the iron or press down on the carpet.

·     Remove the white cloth and replace it with a new wet cloth. Repeat the process until the stain is gone.

Be mindful, there are some things you do not want to use when cleaning spots out of your carpet:

·     Do not use laundry detergent or automatic dishwasher detergents as they may damage the fibers of your carpet.

·     Do not use bleach or ammonia on wool carpets as it will damage the fibers.

·     Do not use carpet spot cleaners on oriental rugs as it will damage the fibers. Oriental rugs should be cleaned with caution. If your rug is an antique, silk, or part silk, contact a professional to remove the stain.

When Looking For The Best Handyman For The Job...Keep Reading!

When Looking For The Best Handyman For The Job… Keep Reading!

Some homeowner’s thing they need to hire a general contractor to do the honey-do repairs around the house.  Actual, not all home repair jobs require the help of a general contractor or specialty contractor. A handyman can be hired for a variety of small home improvement projects. For the busy or simply hammer-phobic homeowner, it sounds almost too good to be true – hire a handyman to tackle your odd jobs for about a third of the cost, time, and hassle of a general contractor.  The good news, there are some licensed handyman out there that are also licenses general contractors and specialty contractors.  

Keep in mind a handyman is a skilled jack of all trades who can be hired by the hour to complete a wide range of small home improvement work and repair. A handyman, or handyman company, typically charges the customer by the hour plus material costs, regardless of the task at hand. Many homeowners will compile a list of repairs and hire a handyman to complete the list in a single visit.

Unfortunately, there is no national standard or regulation for handymen. Licensing and regulation vary by state. New Jersey, for example, requires handymen who work for a profit to register with the state and carry insurance. California requires handymen to carry a license from the State Contractors License Board to work on any project that exceeds $500 in labor and material costs.  The good news, a legitimate handyman or handyman business, will proudly share their insurance certificate and workers compensation coverage with you.

Most general contractors don't usually like to bother with small repair & maintenance tasks.  If you have a good working rapport with one, he might be willing to suggest one of his guys who take side jobs.  Just be mindful the general contractor will typically not stand behind the warranty of cover this job under their insurance.

There are benefits of hiring a handyman. Like most of us, you probably have a to-do list of home improvements like changing out a bathroom faucet, replacing missing shingles on the roof and painting a kitchen wall. You could hire a plumber, roofer and painter who all would have conflicting schedules of availability and their own service charges, or you could hire a handyman to complete all three projects in one day for a single hourly rate.

A homeowner can save money on home improvement projects by hiring a handyman because it eliminates the need for multiple service providers and contractors. Many handymen charge by the hour so a homeowner only pays for one worker who can complete a wide range of projects. A service charge from a plumber or roofer to come to your home could equal or even surpass the price to hire a handyman for a few hours.  Hiring a handyman also prevents waste and overcharging, as the handyman will only charge you for hours worked. A contractor or specialist is more likely to price a job based on the estimated amount of time it will take to complete it. Handymen are able to keep their rates low because they don't have to pay additional workers and have lower overhead costs than general contractors.

Unlike general contractors, who name their price upfront, handymen bill you for the materials they use and the time they spend -- typically at around $50 to $85 an hour. There are some handyman companies that do charge an upfront flat labor rate but bill you for materials separate.   

Many homeowners turn to handymen when they have a job but don't know who to call. Handymen have been known to do all types of work.

HandyPro Newletter - Fall 2012

LED Lights Are The Way To Go... Huge Energy Savings!

LED Lights Are The Way To Go...
A LED (Light-Emitting Diode) is a semiconductor light source. LEDs are commonly used as indicator lamps in many electronic devices. They are becoming increasingly more common in other lighting. Early LEDs emitted low-intensity red light, but today's versions are available across the visible, ultraviolet, and infrared wavelengths, with very high brightness.

LEDs are small, very efficient solid bulbs. New LED bulbs are grouped in clusters with diffuser lenses which have broadened the applications for LED use in the residential application. Over the past few years, the LED technology is advancing faster than previously thought. Many new bulb styles are available on the market. The initial investment of LEDs may seem more expensive than Compact Fluorescent Lights, yet LEDs have proven to bring more value since they last longer. LED bulb pricing is going down each year as the manufacturing technology continues to improve

Research has shown that the average lifespan of home and commercial LED lights is 25 times longer than the expected lifespan of your conventional incandescent light bulb, and 5 times longer than Fluorescent lgiths.

LED Lights & Bulbs reports that LED lights are extremely energy efficient. Depending upon which LED lamp is used, the savings could be up to 93% of the monthly electricity bill. Over the 17 year lifetime of an LED bulb, this can amount to energy savings of up to $300 for each LED light you use.

LED light bulbs also do not contain the same toxic chemicals as Florescent bulbs. This means that they are a much more environmentally friendly option when it comes to disposal. Florescent bulbs contain mercury, which can be harmful for the environment, so they can result in serious pollution problems during disposal.

Over the next few years we will see the evolution of the LED bulbs expand dramatically in the residential sector.  As the price of the bulb become more reasonable, we will see and would recommend homeowners switching to LEDs. 

HANDYPRO Handyman Services

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How do you get rid of black mold on shower grout and caulk in the shower?

How do you get rid of black mold on shower grout and caulk in the shower?

By: Handy Andy

There are folks out there that say that if they have mild cases of either type (surface, not entrenched), they use Tilex and let it sit. They believe that it if it's mild, you should be able to walk away, come back in about 30 minutes and it should be gone. That is optically true.

If it's caulk and it's entrenched, replace the caulk. There is a certain point where it's deep in the stuff and no voodoo will get it out.

The real problem is twofold - the grout may not be sealed properly and you may not have adequate air ventilation.  Grout Sealer can be used when the grout is completely dry - you really should wait 5 days after cleaning it. Preferably after you have been out of town, not using the area. Get Aquamix Gold or equivalent and a cheap sponge paint applicator. Check the air ventilation.

We always like to recommend that if you take a shower, to turn your bathroom ventilation on.

If your grout keeps molding after it's been cleaned and sealed, the problem is probably in the wall. Someone took too long to address the issue. It's one of the issues with grout, as grout is a very porous joint, and unless you stay up on the maintenance, some of them will fail, and moisture will be sucked into the sheet rock or plaster, or even hardiboard. To get rid of the problem you will either need to replace the sub wall and retile.

Now, what to do about a shower that has not been maintained in the above manner since it was new?

Use cleaners that do not contain acids (this includes vinegar). Acids remove desirable material. It is recommended to an alkaline cleaner to remove built-up soap scum and mineral deposits. Use this cleaner only when heavy build-up is present. It should not to be used as a daily cleaner. For routine maintenance use a pH neutral cleaner. Both products are available at tile supply stores or at Lowes and Home Depot.

 

You should also seal the grout and tiles with a penetrating tile sealer both when the shower is new and periodically through the years. Grout and ceramic wall tiles are not waterproof and will absorb quantities of water as the shower is used. Water is the element necessary for breeding mold and mildew.

There are many brands of tile sealers, all of which fall into two general categories: mineral based and latex or acrylic based. Use the latex based products. They won’t stink up your house like the mineral based ones will. If you buy your products (cleaners and sealers) at full line tile supply stores, you’ll have the best chance of obtaining the very best products available. The people who work at these businesses are much more knowledgeable about tile products than people who work at the local home centers.

Sealers do not last forever. I would certainly go for the product that will last the longest. In the past, sealers were only good for a year at most. I like Impregnator 511 from Miracle Sealants. Both are available at Home Depot.

Sealing a shower is relatively easy. Make sure the shower is completely dry. Dry means, it usually takes about five days for the moisture to evaporate from behind the tiles. The five days applies to all showers built with lath and mortar whether new or old. If your shower has only sheetrock behind the tile, the walls will usually dry in two days (unless the sheetrock is saturated, in which case you have problems that can’t be fixed with sealer). Shower floors can take weeks or months to dry out after having been in use for a period of time. You might want to forgo sealing the floor in that case. In new showers, the floor can be sealed along with the walls, but never use an old fashioned sealer on a shower floor. The floor needs to breathe.

If your shower is tiled with large floor tiles which are dense to the point that they won’t accept sealer, you should use a small piece of sponge to apply sealer to the joints only. Wipe the edges of the tiles with a damp cloth. It is important to understand that not all floor tiles are super dense. Some of tile will accept the sealer. Do a little test. Dap sealer on a tile and notice whether the tile absorbs any of it. It does, seal the tiles and grout. If no sealer is absorbed by the tile, seal the joints only.

It is imperative that you remove all sealer from tile surfaces before it has a chance to dry. Some of the water-base sealers are not “strippable” after they’ve dried. Pay attention.

Here is the recap: Clean it, seal it, and wipe it down each time it’s used.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy

Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
March 2012