Friday, September 20, 2013

Fungus On Floor Joists

By: Handy Andy

Recently we were asked to take a look at a crawl space that smelled a little musty.  During our review of the crawl space we determined a few problems:

1. Some of the joist batt insulation had fallen down
2. Some of the joist batt insulation was installed backwards
3. A few pieces of the rim insulation had fallen out
4. The min. of 6-mil (or higher) polyethylene sheathing to cover the ground was missing
5. Fungus was growing on the floor joists

Here are some steps to take to rectify the problem:
 
Step 1
It is important that the fungus/mold gets treated.  Most folks think that straight Clorox is the solution.  This is indeed not the case since it may actually harm the wood fibers.  A 5:1 water to bleach mixture would be suggested to kill what mold that is there. Exterminators recommend coating the wood with a solution of Boric Acid (BORON) and water. It will kill the fungus and keep it from coming back (and in addition any other wood boring insects that ever try to eat the wood). Boron dehydrates the fungus and mold but it will also kill carpenter ant, termites, boring bees, powder post beetles who try to eat the wood. If you can find Boric Acid, you can also use a product called Roach Away ( approx. 95% Boric Acid) which is an insecticide that can be found in many local stores and mix it with hot water.  Apply the solution with a pump sprayer to the affected areas.
 
Step 2
Install the batt insulation.  Insulation with a vapor retarder should be used. Pay attention so that the vapor retarder faces up towards the heated area of the home. The insulation should be installed tight up against the subfloor. The insulation should stay temporarily in place. Once the insulation is in place, hold it in position with insulation support wires. Make sure the ends of the batts fit snug up against the band joists.
 
Step 3
Infill the missing rim insulation where need.  You can use the same vapor retardant faced insulation as in Step 2.
 
Step 4
Cover the ground with black min. 6-mil polyethylene sheeting,overlapping joints by 12" or more. Then use duct tape to join the overlaps and or use rocks to hold the material in place. This will prevent ground moisture from entering the space, rising to the flooring above and causing fungus, mold or wood rot. The polyethylene sheet makes a great moisture barrier.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
September 2013
 

Thursday, May 30, 2013

10 Home Improvements You Need to Consider Before Selling

By: Handy Andy

Although the market is slowly changing, for the time being, most real estate markets are still considered a "Buyers Market". Since the buyers are still in the drivers seat and you are trying to sell your, you have be as competitive as possible on all fronts and that includes having your house to par.
Not only does your house have to be pricing right, but you have to making your property as desirable as possible. You can be proactive and make certain improvements that will make your property more desirable.

Here are 10 improvements that you may want to ponder about:

1. Paint the interior (incl. repair drywall blemishes) and exterior (incl. repair/replace rotten wood).
2. Seal any cracks both inside or outside the home.
3. Keep the lawn mowed and the shrubbery trimmed and shaped and remove leafs from the gutters.
4. Remove any clutter.
5. Clean out your garage and stack stuff neatly.
6. Replace malfunctioning and worn door knobs, locks and door stops.
7. Replace the carpeting.
8. Replace broken tiles on floors and bathroom.
9. Fix any plumbing issues.
10. Tend to any system noises or other flaws.

It’s still a tough market to sell a home.  Take a look at your home with a critical eye and get ready to fix or replace anything in it that doesn’t look right. Sometimes it is helpful to have a someone who is not familiar with your house to give you a second opinion. Ask a friend or a family member who doesn't life with you to give you a second opinion.

Sometimes it is also recommendable to jump a head of the curb and ask an independent home inspector to give you a home assessment report before you put the house on the market.  They have a very keen eye and are trained to address items that typically turn up on a buyers inspection report. The less you have on the list, the better the buyer well feel about making an investment in your home.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Vinyl Siding 101

By: Handy Andy

Over the years, many builders, by demand of homeowners, have choose vinyl siding, because it is perceived to be almost maintenance-free. Put it up, clean it occasionally and forget about it. If the siding fades or breaks, it can be relatively easy to be replaced.

Another nice thing about today's vinyl siding is that it is know to last relatively long.  Vinyl siding will last depending on the grade of the siding, how heavy the vinyl is and the harshness of environmental conditions. Vinyl siding  comes typically with a 10-year up to 50-year warranty.

It comes in many styles. It expands and contracts with temperature variations more than other siding materials and this can cause puffing or separation at seams if the installation did not properly allow for such fluctuations.

Vinyl siding is one of the more popular choices buy homeowners and builders a like for homes today. As a testament to its popularity, as many as 30 percent of homes are now covered in some type of vinyl siding.
Vinyl siding is available in more profiles than any other cladding on the market. Using the latest technology, Vinyl siding manufacturers are using the latest technology to recreate fine wood exteriors of the past that work beautifully with many of today and tomorrows architectural styles, from historic to contemporary. A couple are listed below:

1. Dutch Lap             3. Clapboard                     6. Beated              9. Scallops
2. Single Lap             4. Board & Batten            7. Shakes
2. Cabinet Board       5. Vertical                         8. Shingles

Vinyl siding comes in a wide range of product quality, thickness and lasting durability. Thickness can vary from .035" in cheaper grade siding products up to .052" in the highest grade products which vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Today, the thinnest vinyl siding commonly used is .040", and is known as "builder's grade".


Siding profiles are relatively easily distinguishable from each other. Below are some of the more common profile sizes:


1. Clapboard Siding - Triple = 3",  Double = 4", 4-1/2", 5", and Single = 6", 7"
2. Dutchlap Siding - Triple = 3" and Double = 4", 4-1/2", 5"
3. Beated Siding - Single 6", 7"

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
March 2013

Saturday, January 26, 2013

Cleaning & Protecting Your Travertine Tile

By: Handy Andy

Travertine in the residential construction is a natural stones that is used commonly for paving patios and garden paths. Depending on your region, sometimes the stone is also called travertine marble or travertine limestone.  Travertine is classified properly in the geotechnical realm as a limestone product. The stone is characterized by uneven holes and cribs in its surface. Although these ribs occur naturally, they suggest signs of considerable natural wear and tear over time. Some tile layers use a grout to fill the holes, whereas others leave them open go give it the natural look. Travertine can be purchased with the holes and ribs filled or unfilled.  One can also purchase the tile polished to a smooth and shiny finish.

Travertine is most commonly used as flooring.  One has to be mindful of this stone since it is relative soft in nature and with the combination with its holes and ribs, it make travertine flooring difficult to finish and maintain.
Travertine tile cleaning is the same as cleaning any natural stone.  As with all natural stones it is always recommend too use a neutral cleaner. The absolute most important thing to remember when cleaning travertine tile is not to use strong chemicals or your typical house hold cleaners. Not even a mixture of vinegar or bleach with water is recommended with this stone.  Vinegar is acidic while bleach is alkaline based.  Acidic and even alkaline chemicals will etch the travertine. You do not want to clean travertine with either one of these cleaners. When cleaning your travertine floors, mop the travertine tiles with your neutral cleaning solution.  If you don't have a neutral cleaner, use warm water to clean you travertine surface.  

We recommend you dust mop the floor using a non-treated dust mop or vacuum with a glider (with no plastic beater bar) on it. Then mop the travertine floor with the neutral cleaner.  After mopping, use a dry cotton or microfiber cloth to dry the surface of the travertine.  The last step will not only pick up the excess water but also any dirt particles still left in the water.
 
Travertine will etch easily since it is a soft stone. Sealing travertine has nothing to do with and won't prevent etching. Sealing travertine and the grout yearly is to guard against staining. Travertine can stain when honed or tumbled.  Polished travertine is nearly stain-proof and usually doesn't need sealing.

If your polished travertine floor tile is looking a little dull, it probably needs more than a cleaning. It may need to be re-surfaced, or honed and polished.
The Big Do Not’s…

DON'T use vinegar or others acid cleaners on stone floors
DON'T use cleaners like bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners as many are known to contain acid.

DON'T use abrasive cleaners like soft scrub or Ajax
DON’T let acidic spills remain on the travertine. Remember, travertine is a porous stone, and any spills left standing for some time will dull the finish and may stain the surface.  

Here are some tips…
Seal your travertine tile annually. This will help preserve the travertine and help protect it from dust and stains.

Wipe spills immediately. Particularly, if the spill is acidic in nature like wine, juice, or coffee.
Use a neutral cleaner or stone soap to clean your travertine tile.

Use coasters under glasses and bottles
Put down an entry mat in entryways to protect your travertine tile floor from scratches that could potentially be caused by dirt coming from your shoes. Hall runners and rugs also give additional protection.

Dust mop your travertine tile floor regularly to keep it free from dust and debris that may scratch its surface.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
January  2013

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Home Repairs Everyone Should Do!

By: Handy Andy

Every year we encounter the same standard home repair and maintenance items that so many homeowners ignore.  Many home owners ignore the obvious deferred maintenance items that can save them money and improve the appearance.  Here are 10 repair and maintenance items that every home owner should pay attention too:
 
1. Light Bulb - Change your old indoor light bulbs to the newer compact fluorescent lamp.  A 13W lamp has a 10,000 hour life and replaces a 60W lamp.  In 2013 the olds 75W lamps will be taken off the market.  In 2014, we can expect the old 60W lamps to be taken off the market too.
 
2. Furnace Filter - Changing your filters every 30-90 days, can increase the life of your appliances and keeps your air clean. Depending on your system(s), you may not only have air filters in the common return air in the walls or ceiling but you may also have a filter in your furnace in your attic or crawl space.
 
3. Running Toilet - You may hear dripping or running water in your toilet bowl.  This commonly means that the flapper may need cleaning or replacement.  It may also mean that the floater arm may need adjusting. 
 
4. Leaking Faucet - Dripping faucets can run up your water bill.  Over time some of the internal parts of the faucet can corrode.  Most home improvement stores sell faucet repair kids.
 
5. Shower Head - Over time shower heads clog with mineral deposit and sediment over time. Older models are not very energy efficient while newer models have low flow designs that can save you money without sacrificing the spray strength.
 
6. Weather Striping - Doors open and close. They are under constant stress of warm and cold weather, rain, snow, ice, etc.  The weather striping wears out and goes flat.  It's recommended to change these out every 3 to 5 years.
 
7. Shower Caulk/Grout - It's important to remove worn and mildewed caulk and grout.  By removing the damaged or moldy caulk to can prevent potential deep water damage that can get in through the failing caulk or grout.
 
8. Ceramic Tile - Floor tile can break. Cracks in the tile, can allow water to enter and cause damage to the subfloor. Damaged tile is relatively easy to replace.
 
9. Dryer Vent - Clogged dryer vents can cause your dryer from not running efficiently.  The clogged vent line, if not cleaned regular can be a potential fire hazard. 
 
10. Drywall -  Fix small holes and dents and reattach loose drywall tape.
 
You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
January  2013

Sunday, November 18, 2012

How to protect your exterior door from dog scratches

By: Handy Andy

We are so happy to have our little pup - Bailey and Tucker. They love to go outside and play in the backyard.  They also like to make it known when they want to come back in. Bailey and Tucker scratch on our patio door and frame until we let them in. It's their means of communicating with us that it is time to let them in.

We hadn't found a good solution to this problem until this weekend. We fixed all the scratches, primed and painted the door and frame.  It looks like new. We then cut three pieces of Plexiglas to the size of the door jamb and kick and mounted them to about 18-inches above the threshold. We made the Plexiglas just wide enough so that it would lap the weatherstripping so they would not scratch it. Since the Plexiglas is clear, it appears to be an integral part of the door and frame. The dogs can scratch now without damaging the wood or the weatherstripping. If they get a little mud on the Plexiglas, no big deal, we just wipe it off.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
November 2012


Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Foundation Vent Open or Closed?

By: Handy Andy

There is a lot of confusion surrounding this matter and by following the wrong advice you can make problems worse.

Let's clarify something right from the beginning...  controlling moisture in the crawl space, optimzing foundation vents are proven not to work as you may have hoped for. Vents not only fail to control moisture, they actually contribute to aggravate the problem.

City-Data.com asked it's Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill, NC residence in 2009 what they do with their vents during the winter months.  The result was quite interesting - 60% said they closed the vents while 40% indicated they open the vents.

Greenville Utilities , in Greenville, NC, recommends to follow the North Carolina Uniform Residential Building Code on the number and placement of crawlspace foundation vents. The utility company recommends placing a polyethelene ground cover in the crawl space, which allows for the net free ventilation area to be reduced by 50%.

In past years, the home building industry pretty much always recommended to close the foundation vents in the winter to reduce the exposure of pipes freezing and to avoid cold air in the crawl spaces. During the Spring through the Fall months, the industry alway suggested to leave the vents open .

After much research the utility companies suggests that a change in this procedure is needed for most homes. It has shown that too much ventilation occurs during our hot and humid summers.During the hot and humid weather the warm, moist air migrates into the crawl spaces and through the vents and condenses on the metal ductwork, duct insulation, floor joists, floor insulation and curtain walls. This moisture can rust and damage ductwork and contribute to mold and mildew. The moisture also negatively effects the insulation of the duct and floor and can contribute to potential wood rot.

The final verdict may read like this... Let the crawlpsace dry with natural air movement in the Spring and Fall and leave the vents closed during the hot, humid Summers and throughout the Winters to prevent the moisture problems mentioned above.

You trusted handyman Handy Andy
Visit us at www.HandyPro.com
November  2012